Miyajima to an Onsen Without a Car: Two Routes Back to Hiroshima

Finishing a Miyajima visit with an onsen is possible without renting a car, but the bath you choose changes the route. Honoyu Rakurakuen sits on the direct tram line back towards Hiroshima. Miyahama Onsen lies across the strait on the mainland, closer to the island on a map but less direct by public transport. The key is to choose the return route before you leave the island.

First, get back to Miyajimaguchi

The JR West Miyajima Ferry takes about ten minutes between Miyajima and Miyajimaguchi. Boats run often through the daytime, then thin out later in the evening; the operator’s timetable also distinguishes normal, high-demand and year-end schedules. Leave enough time for the ferry queue and check the date-specific timetable before you settle on a last bath.

At Miyajimaguchi, choose one of two directions:

The direct route: Line 2 to Honoyu Rakurakuen

From the Hiroden-Miyajimaguchi stop, take a Line 2 tram towards Hiroshima and get off at Rakurakuen. The 2026 timetable includes direct services, and the ride is about 17 minutes in a representative departure; confirm the service for your travel date. The bath is a five-minute walk from the stop, so this route needs no transfer after the ferry.

The full “onsen admission” includes the outdoor baths, sauna and cold bath. Towels are sold or rented; shampoo, conditioner and body wash are provided.

This is the more forgiving option if you spend most of the day on Miyajima or want to continue towards Hiroshima after bathing. It is still not an all-night fallback: the ferry and tram each have their own last departures, and the bath stops admitting guests an hour before closing. For the facility’s full bathing rules and current prices, see the Honoyu Ujina and Rakurakuen comparison.

The scenic route: JR to Onoura, then the Heart Bus

For the mainland-side hot-spring atmosphere, return by ferry and take the JR Sanyo Main Line from Miyajimaguchi to Onoura. From there, Oono Heart Bus serves the Miyahama area, including the Benimansaku no Yu stop. Benimansaku’s operator lists the local bus at roughly hourly intervals. The adult fare is ¥150 by cash or standard transport IC card, or ¥140 with MOBIRY DAYS. A taxi from Onoura is quicker when the next bus does not line up with your train.

Benimansaku no Yu is open 10am–10pm, with last admission at 9:30pm; it normally closes on the third Tuesday of each month, moving the closure to Wednesday if that Tuesday is a public holiday. Its static visitor page still shows an older weekday fee, while dated 2026 operator notices identify ¥900 as the ordinary adult price. Check the latest fee notice before departure. The Benimansaku no Yu guide goes into the bath areas and the price-page discrepancy.

Miyahama Grand Hotel is a more time-sensitive choice. Its day-use bath costs ¥800 for adults, but the hotel posts opening windows by date rather than promising one long daily session. It may close early when the hotel is busy, and day-use payment is cash-only under the current notice. Do not assume an overnight guest’s station shuttle is available for a bath-only visit. Check the hotel’s dated day-use schedule before leaving Miyajima.

For an overview of the three Miyahama day baths and their different limits, use the Miyahama onsen comparison. The important point for this route is that a bath being open until evening does not mean the local bus will still be running when you finish.

Pick by the time you leave the island

If you expect to leave Miyajima late, Rakurakuen is usually the more workable plan: the tram is direct and the bath accepts guests until 10pm. If you want the sea view and can leave earlier, Onoura plus the Heart Bus can work, but build the plan around that bus’s timetable and the bath’s final reception—not its closing time.

Do not book a Miyahama ryokan bath on the assumption that all walk-in visits run from 1pm to 8pm. The Grand Hotel changes its hours by date, and a meal or private-bath plan is a separate product. Ordinary public transport is the safer starting point; ask the property whether a shuttle applies to your specific booking rather than relying on a transport note written for overnight guests.

Sources

- [JR West Miyajima Ferry: current timetable and operating calendar](https://jr-miyajimaferry.co.jp/timetable/) - [Hiroden: Line 2 timetable revised 28 March 2026](https://www.hiroden.co.jp/train/timetable_pdf/m29.pdf) - [Honoyu Rakurakuen: opening hours, admission and bathing rules](https://www.honoyu.jp/rakurakuen/guidel/) - [Honoyu Rakurakuen: tram and JR access](https://www.honoyu.jp/rakurakuen/access/) - [Hatsukaichi City: Oono Heart Bus route and timetable information](https://www.city.hatsukaichi.hiroshima.jp/soshiki/118/12399.html) - [Hatsukaichi City: current Oono Heart Bus fares, effective July 2026](https://www.city.hatsukaichi.hiroshima.jp/soshiki/118/12400.html) - [Benimansaku no Yu: hours, local bus frequency and access](https://benimansaku.jp/) - [Benimansaku no Yu: 2026 notice confirming the ordinary adult fee](https://benimansaku.jp/%E3%80%90%E5%AE%AE%E6%B5%9C-%E4%BB%81%E4%BD%B3%E3%81%A1%E3%82%83%E3%82%93%E3%80%80%E8%AA%95%E7%94%9F%E7%A5%AD%EF%BC%81%EF%BC%88%EF%BC%96-%EF%BC%91%EF%BD%9E%EF%BC%96-%EF%BC%97%EF%BC%89/) - [Miyahama Grand Hotel: date-specific day-use hours](https://miyahama.com/guidance/day-spa/) - [Miyahama Grand Hotel: day-use price and cash-only notice](https://miyahama.com/guidance/news-2290/)

Checked: 27 September 2026. Recheck ferry, tram and bus timetables and day-use bath notices for your exact date. Tags: Miyajima onsen, Miyajima day trip, Hiroshima onsen, onsen without a car, Miyajima ferry, Miyajimaguchi, Rakurakuen, Honoyu Rakurakuen, Miyahama Onsen, Benimansaku no Yu, Oono Heart Bus, Hiroshima tram, Hatsukaichi travel, day-use hot spring, Japan transport guide